[PHNUTR-L] Meat-like qualities whet the US appetite for tofu

[Kathrynne Holden, MS, RD]

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Meat-like qualities whet the US appetite for tofu
Biologist tackles taste, texture issues

By Robert Gavin, Globe Staff  |  January 2, 2006
http://www.boston.com/business/articles/2006/01/02/meat_like_qualities_whet_the_us_appetite_for_tofu/?rss_id=Boston+Globe+--+Business+News

Tofu is good for people, rich in protein and in substances that may 
reduce the risk of cancer and heart disease. But you'd probably need a 
molecular biologist to figure a way to get meat-loving Americans to eat 
the bland, mushy soy product.
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Enter Xiang F. Kong, who happens to be a molecular biologist. Kong, once 
a researcher at the Boston University and Harvard medical schools, spent 
more than two years developing a tofu with a consistency, texture, and 
flavor that would appeal to the American palette.

In other words, something a lot like meat.

Kong appears to have succeeded and his new product, known as Tofettes 
and coming in flavors such as teriyaki, barbecue, and Jamaican jerked, 
is quickly gaining a following.

Tofettes hit the market earlier this year, starting with small grocers 
like A. Russo & Sons Inc. of Watertown, and already have found their way 
to the grocery chains Roche Bros. Supermarkets Inc. of Wellesley and 
ShopRite Supermarkets of New Jersey. Shaw's Supermarkets, a unit of 
Albertson's Inc. of Boise, Idaho, is also considering stocking Tofettes, 
which, the Shaw's manager for vegetable produce said, might represent 
the ''next generation" of tofu products.

Kong's pursuit of next-generation tofu is based on research -- his own 
and others' -- that shows products made from whole foods, like soybean, 
provide greater nutritional value than refined products, extracts, and 
dietary supplements. Some meat substitutes, for example, use a refined 
soy protein, which doesn't provide the same nutrients as whole bean 
products, said Barbara Klein, a codirector of the Illinois Center for 
Soy Foods at the University of Illinois.

Soy is best known for providing necessary protein without the fat and 
cholesterol of meat and dairy products. Soy also contains isoflavones, 
substances similar to the human hormone estrogen. Some studies have 
shown isoflavones lower the risk of heart disease and some cancers, 
Klein said.

Other studies have suggested lower rates of heart disease and cancer in 
Asia might be related to higher consumption of soy products, such as 
tofu, said John Erdman, professor of food science and human nutrition at 
the University of Illinois.

But here in the United States, Erdman said, tofu has run up against two 
main obstacles: taste and texture.

Tofu accounted for just $261 million of the $4 billion soy food market, 
according to ''Soyfoods: The US Market 2005," published by Soyatech Inc. 
of Bar Harbor, Maine, and SPINS Inc. of San Francisco.

Kong, 62, solved these problems by combining traditional methods of tofu 
production, which is similar to making cheese, with modern technology. 
The process begins with whole soybeans that are soaked overnight, then 
ground to extract soy milk. The milk is curdled, and the curds used to 
make tofu.

To achieve a meat-like texture, Kong uses a press that employs precise 
heat and pressure, established through a lengthy process of trial and 
error. The tofu, cut into small pieces, is then briefly fried in 
vegetable oil.

The result is tofu ''unique in its textures and ability to take on 
flavors," said Peter Golbitz, president of Soyatech, a consultant and 
publisher specializing in soybean and oilseed industries.

''The whole process is very innovative," Golbitz said. ''He's doing 
things with tofu that I haven't seen anybody try in 20 years."

And it seems to be working.

After first tasting Tofettes at Russo's in Watertown, Clydia Davenport, 
56, of West Roxbury tracked down Kong and ordered two cases -- which 
Kong personally delivered. Her favorite flavor: teriyaki.

''They're chewy and delicious," Davenport said. ''I served them to my 
parents and they didn't even know they were eating tofu."

Kong's company, Soya Foods, operates out of a small plant in Dorchester, 
employing as many as 10, depending on orders. Kong is preparing to 
expand production with the help of a $75,000 line of credit from the 
Massachusetts Community Development Finance Corporation.

Meanwhile, Kong has developed a unique process to roll tofu in thin 
sheets, instead of traditional blocks, and allow him to add another 
product line he hopes will appeal to the American palate. Up next: tofu 
pasta.

Robert Gavin can be reached at rgavin at globe.com.
-- 
Kathrynne Holden, MS, RD < fivestar at nutritionucanlivewith.com >
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